Water Heaters
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From: phelbooth on 14 Sep 2008 15:43 When it comes to water heaters, what do I know? Nothing. So if any of you have any advice, I'm all ears. The 1970 water heater that came with the house is fading fast. (I was able to figure out how to read the tag and determine it's date of production.) It's a 52 gallon rheemglas, electric. Now, we have had gas run to the house since buying it, tho we would have to now run the gas from one side of the basement to the other. Given gas and electric prices, I have no idea what is more efficient. I know nothing about brands, tho I must admit I was impressed to see that the Rheem lassted 38 years. Please help! Thanks, Fill
From: Bill in Co on 14 Sep 2008 16:13 All other things equal, I'd vote for gas. It's a LOT faster (to reheat), and I believe a lot more enery efficient, and cheaper to run, I expect (unless you have exorbitant gas costs). The cost of running the gas line might be a determining factor, but I kinda doubt it (besides which, that's a one shot expense, anyway). And Rheem seems like a well known brand. phelbooth wrote: > When it comes to water heaters, what do I know? Nothing. So if any of > you have any advice, I'm all ears. > > The 1970 water heater that came with the house is fading fast. (I was > able to figure out how to read the tag and determine it's date of > production.) It's a 52 gallon rheemglas, electric. > > Now, we have had gas run to the house since buying it, tho we would > have to now run the gas from one side of the basement to the other. > > Given gas and electric prices, I have no idea what is more efficient. > I know nothing about brands, tho I must admit I was impressed to see > that the Rheem lassted 38 years. > > Please help! > Thanks, > Fill
From: Doug Freyburger on 14 Sep 2008 17:37 "Bill in Co" <surly_curmudg...(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > > All other things equal, I'd vote for gas. It's a LOT faster (to reheat), > and I believe a lot more enery efficient, and cheaper to run, I expect > (unless you have exorbitant gas costs). Agreed. > The cost of running the gas line > might be a determining factor, but I kinda doubt it (besides which, that's a > one shot expense, anyway). Defintely have a professional do the installation. > And Rheem seems like a well known brand. Yes. One thing to try to extend its life is a hot purge. It should have directions posted on it. The idea of this is to flush any mineral slurry at the bottom out of it. It won't help for scale solid on the inside but will help if there's any loose mineral stuff settled to the bottom.
From: Dr Nancy's Sweetie on 14 Sep 2008 20:48 "phelbooth <phelbooth(a)gmail.com>" wrote: > When it comes to water heaters, what do I know? Nothing. So if any of > you have any advice, I'm all ears. Consumer Reports tested a bunch a few years ago, and the one thing that really stood out was that the 12-year-warranty heaters were much better made than the 6-year-warranty ones. Thicker insulation, heavier metal in the housings, thicker baffles, just in general a better-made unit. Also, CR says that there are a few manufacturers who make water heaters under license from a pile of well-known companies, so as to use the well-known company's name. CR says that basically the companies compete on price and warranty, and does not seem to have any specific brand preferences. I found a 12-year warranty heater at Home Depot with a really high FHR rating (that's an estimate of efficiency -- mine came in at 84) and a low projected energy cost. Be sure, if you go with gas, that you measure the ceiling height in whatever room the thing will end up in, and the distance from the heater to the chimney. There has to be a certain minimum angle for the chimney pipe to guarantee that the exhaust goes up (it's not much, but you should measure to be sure). With mine, the old one was 40 gallons and the new one was 50, so it was taller. The measurements made the installers feel better that they had enough height. Sediment collects in the bottom of a water heater over time; so far as I know, all of them have drains you can use to flush it out (it's just a faucet on the side; sometimes it has a screw instead of handle, so you need a screwdriver to open it). When you get back from a week long trip, or such, drain a gallon of water out of the water heater before anybody uses the hot water in the house. The sediment and such will have all settled while you were away, and the first blast of water that comes out may be dark brown. You can get a water heater blanket, to add insulation. The outside metal housing of our water heater is usually cold to the touch, so we've never bothered. You might check in a month to see how yours is doing. Also, be sure you have it installed by professionals, and don't fool with the safety devices. And check the pressure valve every month or so. If you have any doubts about why, watch these "Mythbusters" clips: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pu3FwgIHsQA http://dsc.discovery.com/videos/mythbusters-exploding-water-heater.html Darren Provine ! kilroy(a)elvis.rowan.edu ! http://www.rowan.edu/~kilroy "I reject your reality and substitute my own." -- Adam Savage (?)
From: phelbooth on 14 Sep 2008 22:19
On Sep 14, 7:48 pm, Dr Nancy's Sweetie <kil...(a)elvis.rowan.edu> wrote: > "phelbooth <phelbo...(a)gmail.com>" wrote: > > When it comes to water heaters, what do I know? Nothing. So if any of > > you have any advice, I'm all ears. > > Consumer Reports tested a bunch a few years ago, and the one thing > that really stood out was that the 12-year-warranty heaters were much > better made than the 6-year-warranty ones. Thicker insulation, > heavier metal in the housings, thicker baffles, just in general a > better-made unit. Also, CR says that there are a few manufacturers who > make water heaters under license from a pile of well-known companies, > so as to use the well-known company's name. CR says that basically the > companies compete on price and warranty, and does not seem to have any > specific brand preferences. > > I found a 12-year warranty heater at Home Depot with a really high FHR > rating (that's an estimate of efficiency -- mine came in at 84) and a > low projected energy cost. > > Be sure, if you go with gas, that you measure the ceiling height in > whatever room the thing will end up in, and the distance from the > heater to the chimney. There has to be a certain minimum angle for the > chimney pipe to guarantee that the exhaust goes up (it's not much, but > you should measure to be sure). With mine, the old one was 40 gallons > and the new one was 50, so it was taller. The measurements made the > installers feel better that they had enough height. > > Sediment collects in the bottom of a water heater over time; so far as I > know, all of them have drains you can use to flush it out (it's just a > faucet on the side; sometimes it has a screw instead of handle, so you > need a screwdriver to open it). > > When you get back from a week long trip, or such, drain a gallon of > water out of the water heater before anybody uses the hot water in the > house. The sediment and such will have all settled while you were > away, and the first blast of water that comes out may be dark brown. > > You can get a water heater blanket, to add insulation. The outside > metal housing of our water heater is usually cold to the touch, so we've > never bothered. You might check in a month to see how yours is doing. > > Also, be sure you have it installed by professionals, and don't fool > with the safety devices. And check the pressure valve every month or > so. If you have any doubts about why, watch these "Mythbusters" clips: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pu3FwgIHsQA > > http://dsc.discovery.com/videos/mythbusters-exploding-water-heater.html > > Darren Provine ! kil...(a)elvis.rowan.edu !http://www.rowan.edu/~kilroy > "I reject your reality and substitute my own." -- Adam Savage (?) Wow! Thanks a lot! I called a plumber (used to be neighbor, friendly but not friends). He said he thought he could replace the element (the bottom element???) for cost of $70--including him putting this in. Is this worth spending, when it is, after all, a 1970 water heat that will need to be replaced someday? I don't mind to spend 70 bucks so we can save 700-1400 over the next year to buy the best option next year, but can this kind of replacement be done? Or is it wasting 70 bucks? I was able to take a quick hot shower tonight. It heats about 10 minutes worth right now, hot, then 3+ lukewarm, then COLD. If I read you all correctly (and please say if not) 1. Let me know if I should go with the $70 quick fix, or if better to a new heater If I can hang on to this one, fi he can make it work, 2-3 years, will be alternative energy forms then? In WI where it is buck cold? 2. I should buy a gas one Our house is 24x 24, so even running from kitty-corner isnt' much, really? Will be saved with price of gas? Even with gas prices soaring? Are there other options??? 3. Warranties matter, Better warranties mean better water heaters 4/ Pay attention to efficincies. What puts out less bad stuff--gas or electric? Why and how do you know? 5. Follow codes. We have a gas stove in the corner of the fam room of basement, and I know it was put in by code. So whoever would extend the gas, make sure they follow code. Thanks. I can understnad all this. If I missed anything, let me know. All I didi today was be on the computer. First I graded, for that had to be done. Then, I ran into several bad glitches with an online class I'm creating. Turned out their virtual space was having a hard time today, too. They totally POOF disappeared an entire course of mine. THAT SUCKS Then I was looking all this stuff up and it's beyond me. So, thanks and more advice welcome Fill |