From: Burgerman on
"Roger Conroy" <rogerconroy.nospam(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:g6akq3$i94$1(a)registered.motzarella.org...
>
> "Burgerman" <burgerman(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:BC3ik.30754$5O6.10233(a)newsfe14.ams2...
>> "Don" <dsluter(a)comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:Y6idnTZCcqH5dBrVnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d(a)comcast.com...
>>>I have a Caravan with an IMS conversion; 10" lowered floor, folding ramp,
>>>and kneeling system. Going over bumps makes the ramp rattle, and it
>>>drives me crazy, especially because many towns don't have a large enough
>>>budget to keep local roads in good shape. I have noticed that someone
>>>does a conversion where the ramp slides into the floor. Is this type of
>>>ramp any quieter than the folding ones?
>>> Also, has anyone here figured out a way to quiet a folding ramp to any
>>> degree?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Don
>>
>>
>> Added to my other reply...
>>
>> Just looked at a Braun and a VMI van. They both adjust the same way as my
>> Rollx van so its highly likely yours will be the same. And completely
>> silent when adjusted properly.
>
> So its seems to me that the manufacturers are not training their
> installers properly if they say nothing can be done about rattles.
>


They are normally set up correctly when they leave the factory.
Then a bunch of things can happen...

a) the ramps computer gets confused / crashes and gets all its steps out of
sequence. It ignores the limit switch on the motor and keeps driving the
ramp inwards against the stop. This knocks it out of adjustment and can even
bend the metal arm that the bolt that you adjust (the mechanical "stop")
fits in. If thats the case a new one needs fitting. But usually it just
needs readjusting.

b) it bends the bolt.

c) the bolt works loose...

d) much use means it just needs re adjusting.

From: Don on
Burgerman wrote:
> "Don" <dsluter(a)comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:Y6idnTZCcqH5dBrVnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d(a)comcast.com...
>> I have a Caravan with an IMS conversion; 10" lowered floor, folding
>> ramp, and kneeling system. Going over bumps makes the ramp rattle,
>> and it drives me crazy, especially because many towns don't have a
>> large enough budget to keep local roads in good shape. I have noticed
>> that someone does a conversion where the ramp slides into the floor.
>> Is this type of ramp any quieter than the folding ones?
>> Also, has anyone here figured out a way to quiet a folding ramp to any
>> degree?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Don
>
>
> Added to my other reply...
>
> Just looked at a Braun and a VMI van. They both adjust the same way as
> my Rollx van so its highly likely yours will be the same. And completely
> silent when adjusted properly.

I tried that, but on my van, (2002) the bumper on the door pushes the
ramp just so tight, and then does not finish closing - the rear needs to
be pushed from the outside as it is closing to completely latch. Even
so, there is still some rattling - though quite a bit better. It seems
like I need to put some type of padding at the bottom of the ramp so the
two pieces don't bang together, also perhaps another bumper at the
bottom of the door.

Thanks,

Don
From: Burgerman on
"Don" <dsluter(a)comcast.net> wrote in message
news:Kc2dnaQqJJKq-hTVnZ2dnUVZ_u-dnZ2d(a)comcast.com...
> Burgerman wrote:
>> "Don" <dsluter(a)comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:Y6idnTZCcqH5dBrVnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d(a)comcast.com...
>>> I have a Caravan with an IMS conversion; 10" lowered floor, folding
>>> ramp, and kneeling system. Going over bumps makes the ramp rattle, and
>>> it drives me crazy, especially because many towns don't have a large
>>> enough budget to keep local roads in good shape. I have noticed that
>>> someone does a conversion where the ramp slides into the floor. Is this
>>> type of ramp any quieter than the folding ones?
>>> Also, has anyone here figured out a way to quiet a folding ramp to any
>>> degree?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Don
>>
>>
>> Added to my other reply...
>>
>> Just looked at a Braun and a VMI van. They both adjust the same way as my
>> Rollx van so its highly likely yours will be the same. And completely
>> silent when adjusted properly.
>
> I tried that, but on my van, (2002) the bumper on the door pushes the ramp
> just so tight, and then does not finish closing - the rear needs to be
> pushed from the outside as it is closing to completely latch. Even so,
> there is still some rattling - though quite a bit better. It seems like I
> need to put some type of padding at the bottom of the ramp so the two
> pieces don't bang together, also perhaps another bumper at the bottom of
> the door.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don

Nope. What is happening is that the motor is not pulling the ramp in as far
as it should up against the stop. Then the door hits it and senses an
obstruction.

To fix it do the following.

Slacken the stop bolt.
Remove cover over motor.
On the shaft you will see either 2 or 3 metal cams that operate some
microswitches.
One decides when to stop the ramp powering down. Ignore.
One isnt always fitted and I am not sure what it does.
The final one is usually the one closest to the ramp and doorway (at least
on a left hand drive car like mine) and it controls the point where the ramp
stops powering up.

That last one needs adjusting. It needs to pull the ramp in by another
fraction of an inch -- depending on how far out it really is -- The cam is
locked onto the shaft by a tiny allen key.
Be VERY careful when you adjust it because one degree rotation is about an
inch at the top of the ramp! Dont move it about randomly! If you get it
wrong the ramp will try to power itself too far in and damage the stop screw
or bracket as mentioned before.

Once your ramp is closing a fraction further THEN readjust the stop screw to
stop the rattle and the door will close reliably.


You need to rotate it away very slightly. Thats the top needs to move
towards the outside.